Pattern Review: 229 Sailor Pants
*This blog post is sponsored by Folkwear patterns- but as usual, all opinions and experiences are my own. *
It seems that every generation has been influenced by the flared-pant silhouette, and I am no exception. I was drawn in by the story behind this pattern ( Folkwear patterns include a little history and are an enriching experience, all round!) so despite cutting back on my sewing this season, I jumped at the opportunity to try the Sailor Pants pattern.
Some things to note: The pattern pieces are big. There are no side seams, and they are long. I had my copy printed in A0 format at the copy shop. The sizing is unique, owing to the backstory of the drafting. I have heard rumors of expansion in the future. For today, I will try to help you figure out what size might work for you as best as I can.
Pattern Description: “These high-waisted bellbottom pants are loaded with all the elements and details of the original [WWII Navy uniform], such as the distinctive buttoned front closure, lace-up back eyelet gusset, back welt pocket, and inner leg godet. ”
I made these! But..I didn’t include the pockets, and I didn’t use stitched eyelets, and at this point I’m sounding a bit lame..but read on anyways, since you’ve come this far!
Size Range: 35″ hip to 47.5″ hip.
I made a size 32, based on the finished garment chart, using my hip measurement as my main guide. I measured the pattern piece to determine the rise height and then measured my waist at that point. I needed to take in the waistband by 6 inches. This pattern has a straight waistband, and you already know that I’m a curved band body type, so I ended up making the straight size 32 and darting the waistband in. It may not be the fanciest way to adjust this pattern, but in a pattern with a LOT going on it is the simplest and best.. for me. (No side seams, remember). The only other little thing is I would lengthen the inseam next time. All this is to say, a muslin wouldn’t be a terrible idea!
Recommended Fabrics: Medium to heavy weight woven fabrics such as wool melton, denim, twill, cotton duck, linen, flannel, light to medium weight canvas.
I used a cotton sateen, because I was wild about the color. It has a bit of stretch, you can see the wrinkles, but I love wearing them. I think a stiffer fabric with more body would be more idea. I’m just a rebel sometimes.
Things I liked: This is a complicated pattern. However, Folkwear’s instructions are just so nice. They’re cozy, like a story. They use olden days techniques that make me feel like I’m in a period drama. They slow me down in a good way. They hold my hand through each step. I also like the style A LOT. Its really cool. The insides of my pants are finished so neatly! The lace-up back panel is a little bit nautical and a little bit rock and roll- at least my version with brass eyelets is.
Things I didn’t like: I have done a few welt pockets and I don’t mind the process, but I never actually use the pockets and I get annoyed with the welt pocket bag over time, wearing them. This is something I don’t like generally, its not just this pattern. And that’s why we sew! Haha. Make your own way. The other thing that isn’t my favorite is the number of buttons to be done and undone. To help you gauge my laziness in dressing, I also avoid jumpsuits, shoes with laces, or gloves with fingers. I guess I just want to jump into my clothes, without aim, and be ready to go. #momlife
In conclusion: This is a cool pattern with a real history. Its not just another pair of trousers. If you are looking for something interesting to wear and a healthy challenge to sew- you should make these. It’s not like they’re going out of style!